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Central District, the original and enduring heart
of Hong Kong, was remarkably compact. By
the standards of most cities it was very small.
Originally developed along the coastal strip beneath
the lower slopes of Victoria Peak,
Central District later had been extended
seawards by reclamation. The area had always been
the focus of the Colony's administrative, military
and commercial life. Yet, just beyond
this civic precinct's established spaces, there
existed crowded back streets. These tenement areas,
thoroughly Chinese, stretched to the
west and east.
Hedda Morrison captured the essence of the district,
originally named the City of Victoria and known
to the Chinese, then and now, as Chung Wan (Middle
Circuit). Some way above the city, from gently
winding contour roads, she photographed panoramas
across the harbour towards Kowloon and its line
of peaks. In Central the impressive mass of the
Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, focus of European
finance on the China coast, loomed large. Nearby
Morrison took pleasure in the fine Victorian and
Edwardian buildings that graced the area. Around
Statue Square, its Cenotaph yet to be inscribed
for the Second World War, she captured the dignity
– and to modern eyes the surreal emptiness
– of the city. Some distance to the west,
where perceptions of European civility gave way
to raw Chinese reality, her camera revealed the
street
life: alleyways and terraced tenements, children
and workers. There, individuals – whole
lives
– endured poverty and hardship.
In China Morrison had made finely composed architectural
studies, capturing Peking's built heritage in
compelling views. Now in Hong Kong she portrayed
the edifices of Central District.
By the standards of Peking, or even Shanghai,
the buildings were modest. But for Hong Kong
they represented the epitome of colonial style.
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